I don't think the factory gasket is 1 piece, its 3. Most of the ones you will replace it with from the parts store are 1 piece though. As for getting it off with the trans in I don't know, I removed my A4 to get my pan off, but I do know you will have undo your motor mounts and lift your engine up in the bay because the pan hits on the K-member and you won't be able to get it low enough to clear the windage tray/oil pump.

Good luck it isn't fun no matter which way you do it :LS1LT1flag:

 

alot of people will try to tell you its impossible with an m6, but i did it. Undo the motor mounts, jack the motor up as high as it will go, and rotate the crank until the pan slides out (if you are replacing the pan).

 

The oil pan gasket that fits LT1's is for 1 piece rear main seal. Some Gen I's were a 1 piece rear main seal like the 85 or 86 or 87+ 350s. Your best bet is if you can't find an oil pan gasket directly for a LT1 is to get one for a 95 GM 1 piece rear main seal w/ the oil dipstick on the passenger side.

Yes you can drop it down far enough, you'll have to jack the motor up as high as it will go by loosening up the motor mounts and move the pan down as much as it'll go. Then you'll have to fish it down through the front and reach in from the back (or vise versa whichever you want to do)

I recommend using at least 6 small zip ties and tying the gasket to the pan 3 on each side, like the 2nd hole from the front and back on both sides and then one in the middle. Leave the bolts snug when you get it bolted up, but not loose nor tight so when you go to cut the ties you can pull them out easily.

 

The oil pan gasket that fits LT1's is for 1 piece rear main seal. Some Gen I's were a 1 piece rear main seal like the 85 or 86 or 87+ 350s. Your best bet is if you can't find an oil pan gasket directly for a LT1 is to get one for a 95 GM 1 piece rear main seal w/ the oil dipstick on the passenger side.

Yes you can drop it down far enough, you'll have to jack the motor up as high as it will go by loosening up the motor mounts and move the pan down as much as it'll go. Then you'll have to fish it down through the front and reach in from the back (or vise versa whichever you want to do)

I recommend using at least 6 small zip ties and tying the gasket to the pan 3 on each side, like the 2nd hole from the front and back on both sides and then one in the middle. Leave the bolts snug when you get it bolted up, but not loose nor tight so when you go to cut the ties you can pull them out easily.

damn that is a good idea.... i did my gasket twice on my a4 and its still leaking and i know its from there .... next time ima replace the pan aswell maybe thats the problem but thx for the zip tie idea :thumbsup:

 

That is a good idea. My gasket came with 4 plastic alignment tools that would screw into the block, but I didn't realize what they were till after I was done :lol:

 

When you work by yourself, you come up with many ways to become more efficient.

 

I know exactly what you're talking about. I pulled the motor out by myself once in 3 hours, it helps to be angry.